Weekly Beer Geek: Bell's Rye Stout

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Bell's Rye Stout

Bell's Brewery, Inc.

$2.59/bottle

Grade: B-

The Beginning:

Unfortunately, there's not a very interesting story behind this beer... I was in a stout sort of mood, and this is a stout. One of the first beers I ever liked was Bell's Oberon, but that's only available in the summer and is better-known than most beers I review. Instead, I'll tell you a fun story- one of my teachers was waiting in an airport and saw a guy in a Bell's hat, so he complemented him on his good taste. As it turned out, the guy was Larry Bell, the founder of Bell's Brewery. And as cool as that is, the coolest part is that he told me that story while I was in high school- I was virtually destined to review beer, even from an early age.

The Brewer's Pitch:

If you're in the range covered by The Black Sheep, you've had Bell's beer (unless you drink only cheap beers like a little sissy man). They are the king of microbrewers in this region- if not necessarily in quality- *cough* Dragonmead *cough*- at least in terms of exposure and sales. And not only do they make a lot of beer, they make a lot of stout- six, at last count. This particular model is a dark stout advertised as being fizzily carbonated with a dry bite characteristic of rye. I've only had rye in liquor, not beer, so I'm excited to see what it does. Interestingly, the hops and malt are both supposed to take a backseat to the rye.

The Beer:

Between the reddish hue, two-finger head, and carbonation bubbles clinging to the sides of the glass, I've never had a beer that looked so much like a Cherry Coke. Rye Stout is sweetly dry on the nose, promising a crisp taste without too much bitterness. That promise is fulfilled, at least in the second half of the taste. The front end of Bell's Rye Stout is a crisp, almost acidic bite that is unusual, if not unpleasant. This blends seamlessly into a sweeter taste that is very slightly fruity and has a highly carbonated tingle on the tongue. It is vaguely reminiscent of rye bread, and not only in the taste. This beer is very full-bodied and feels thick and heavy, almost like a well-chewed slice.

The Breakdown:

Although unique, the taste of Rye Stout is smooth and subtle, and an extreme pairing would ruin it. I'd recommend this along with something such as potato soup (St. Patrick's day is coming, after all) or some other kind of smooth starch. The sweetness is a bit off-putting when combined with the heaviness of a stout- ultimately, I'd rather get a sweet light beer like a Belgian ale, or something heavy and bitter like a more traditional stout. However, there's something compelling about the unique flavor blend. Although Bell's Rye Stout will never be one of my favorites, I'll probably end up buying it again.

The Bottom Line:

OK, Bell's, I give up. A sad old man? Why is your label a sad old man? Is your beer for sad old men? Will it turn me into a sad old man? Since neither of those seems likely, I must conclude that it was produced by a sad old man. His name is "Bud," and Larry Bell keeps him chained to a brewing vat. If you ever tour the Bell's plant, demand to visit Bud. The security guards will gladly escort you.

 

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